The weird, webby-stringy texture of brisket has always put me off, along with its tendency to dryness. (The holiday itself goes on for 8 days, so I can understand that you might want to get a little crazy by the 5th or 6th night.) I can vouch for the deliciousness and complete ease of Gourmet's brisket recipe with one suggestion: Ditch the brisket, get the chuck roast. Passover, like Thanksgiving, only happens once a year, and so I've found that people really don't need something new and wild on the table, especially during the first two festive Seder nights. As my friend Molly said, just start saving for the kids' therapy now. Just buy a jar of fish balls, mash them into a cupcake liner, and top with a big, tempting swirl of.wait! That's not strawberry icing, it's HORSERADISH WHIPPED CREAM! Oh, the horror. However, you don't need to make your fish balls to present Stefani Pollack's fabulous (or terrifying) Gefilte Fish Cupcakes from The Cupcake Project. Time and deadlines, alas, will preclude this from happening for Monday's Seder, but sometime during the rest of the week, who knows? I could have a carp swimming in my bathtub yet. My mother even sent me the recipe she'd used, torn out of her well-splattered copy of From My Mother's Kitchen by longtime New York Times writer Mimi Sheraton.
I had high hopes of finally making my own gefilte fish (chilled fish balls, typically made from carp, pike, and whitefish mixed with onion and matzoh meal and poached in fish stock, a kind of Mitteleuropa quenelle) from scratch this year. My grandmother was a true balaboosta-Yiddish for perfect housewife & mother-and she knew how to keep a kid out of her hair when she was busy making chicken soup for 20.) (The exception was Passover brownies, which my 7-year-old self loved to whip up from the box of Manischewitz mix. Too true! Growing up, everything at our Passover Seders was made from scratch in my grandmother Fae's kitchen, from the gefilte fish to the brisket to the spongecake. He married a balaboosta and SHE cooked for him." My favorite comment about Wise Sons' Saturday-only deli came from my sister, who wrote on Facebook, "Your grandfather, may he rest in peace, he didn't eat at delis that popped up.
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